Day 292 – July 3, 2014: Anchorage in the Benjamin Islands

The North Channel is filled with small islands, and the northeast end is considered the best area for cruisers who like to anchor out. We headed out in the late morning for the Benjamin Islands, reputed to be a “must see” in this area by those in the know. Again, we passed some colorfully named spots. We left Little Current and followed Waubuno Channel west, turning north at East Rous Island, and had a wonderful view of the La Cloche Mountains with white granite sides in the distance. At Bedford Island we turned west again past Amedroz Island to Secretary Island where we turned north, keeping the Sow and Pigs (many visible rocks) to port. The Benjamins appeared on the left and Croker Island on the right. 

We picked a bay central to the Benjamins that is surrounded by small islands and has good wind protection from the south and west. Inside there was a small cove by a towering rocky point that was open and irresistible, so we took it quickly before anyone else might arrive.

Entrance to the bay

Great Laker on the hook

From this spot we set out to explore the area by dinghy. The rocks to the south of us sloped up from the water’s edge forming a smooth incline towards the top of the ridge. We motored over, careful to avoid the shallow rocks, and as I got out tying up the dingy, I slipped on the algae-covered rocks and got quite a refreshing bath. This granite slope had large patches with the unusual pink hue we have seen so much of recently.

Wet from docking the dinghy

We climbed to the top of the slope of pink granite

The view from the top was just spectacular, revealing the mix of hillsides, trees, and rocky shores forming the bay.

View of the Benjamins from the top

While in Little Current we ran into a couple we had met in the Chesapeake Bay last year. We were surprised to find them anchored here and later joined them for cocktails on their boat, Last Dance, before dinner. 

Day 291 - July 2, 2014: Little Current

We departed Baie Fine with regret. It would have been fun to spend several days here soaking up nature's beauty and pretending that the political and economic world around us does not exist. Plus, there were very few bugs and none of the swarming shadflies. Backtracking through the bay, we headed west in the North Channel for Little Current.

The town of Little Current sits on a narrow passageway between the Georgian Bay and the North Channel. It is named for the high currents that frequent this channel depending on the winds that drive water into one end or the other. We passed by the Strawberry Island Lighthouse and under the swing bridge which is the only land access to Manitoulin Island. It opens once each hour for 15 minutes; however, at 18 feet and with our VHF radio antennae down and radar mast lowered, we were easily able to pass under without waiting.

Strawberry Island Lighthouse

Little Current bridge

There is a town dock here which is located adjacent to the small main street, and we arranged to tie up on the outside end of Pier B for ease of departure if the winds and currents are unfriendly in the morning.

The Little Current Town Dock and city downtown in the distance

Coming in early gave me a chance to do some maintenance on the dinghy fuel system, as the outboard has been starting hard and running rough the last few days. It was time to change the fuel filter, blow out the fuel lines, and dump the remaining gallon of months old ethanol gas in favor of fresh. Luckily, there was a NAPA parts store nearby where I got a new generic fuel filter for the motor. 

We ran into couples from two different boats here on the docks that are loopers we had met last year. One couple finished the loop and is just cruising this area for the summer, and the other couple was with us in Waterford during the Erie Canal delays last year. It is a small world.

Then it was off to the grocery store for a few items before our run across the North Channel. Later, we ate at the Anchor Bar and Grill and had the Cajun whitefish which was really excellent.

Day 290 - July 1, 2014: Baie Fine, the Pool and Lake Topaz

Weather reports are not always accurate, so instead of high winds and rain, we woke to sunshine and calm waters. Anne was feeling better, so we abandoned the idea of going to Little Current, tossed the lines, and headed up on a 25-mile side trip further north to Baie Fine (Fine Bay). This feels like genuine cruising to me, when you can just choose to go wherever you want, rather than keep chasing a never-ending, linear series of destinations.

The channels here are wide, and there are high, tree-lined mountains scattered with rocky cliffs rising above the waters. I enjoyed following the colorful names on the charts as we passed, such as Powderhorn Bay, Landsdown Channel, Lions Hump, Underhill Point, Partridge Island, and Steamer Reef.

Landsdown Channel

Mountain rocky cliffs

 The opening to Baie Fine at Frazer Point is narrow, but the bay is eight miles long and shaped like a carrot. When entering, there is no marked channel, so you are on your own to choose a path by following the chart. This is a very desolate area surrounded by national forest lands, and there are no cottages visible along the channel. Our destination was a tiny finger at the very end called The Pool, and as you enter, there is a right turn which goes around a small point with a cottage built by the Evinrude family (outboard motors). The cottage is in a pristine location, but somehow seemed out of place given nature’s surrounding beauty.

Shoreline along Baie Fine

The Pool (vertical on the right) at the tip of Baie Fine

The Pool is a popular cruising destination because it is isolated, protected from winds, and large enough for groups of boaters (many of which anchor and tie their sterns to the shore). We anchored at the south end up near a high, tree-lined ridge for wind protection overnight.

North end of the Pool, showing the Evinrude cottage

Anchoring spot at the south end of the Pool

As a bonus, you can dinghy to the northeast end and hike up a couple of miles to an outlook over Topaz Lake. This lake is unusual in that its water is crystal clear and turquoise in color; yet there are no plants or fish in the lake. Some believe that local mining may have caused this. The climb was steep, and the trail rather poorly marked, but we found the top with the help of another group (surprisingly from Ann Arbor, Michigan) scouting ahead. The view was well worth the climb!

Topaz Lake outlook

Crystal clear, turquoise-colored water

This evening I swam in the lake, then we barbequed salmon for dinner, and later both of us relaxed with a good book.

Evening serenity disturbed by storm clouds on the horizon

Day 289 - June 30, 2014: Weathered in and a trip to Sudbury

The forecast is for more rain and a possible thunderstorm this afternoon with attendant high winds from the south and on the beam. Not a good day to be out in the bay. There are still epic amounts of pollen in these waters, and it is covering the water and surrounding Great Laker at the slip. This massive pollen dump has been evident for several weeks now.

Rain and storm clouds over Killarney

Yellow pollen choking the channel and marina docks

There are also thousands of shadflies, also known as mayflies, clinging to the sides of the boat and the buildings in the marina. These flies start their lives as nymphs living in the water and eating algae, plant matter, and smaller invertebrates found on the bottom. After about a year in the water, they emerge, split their skin, and become a winged adult that can take flight. As poor fliers, they can not evade predatory birds and are easily caught and eaten. So their evolved strategy for continuing to exist is for all the shadflies to emerge at the same time and overwhelm the bird's appetites. With no mouth to eat with, the shadflies mate, give birth, and die all within a few days. And the cycle of life goes on.

Shadfly, also known as a Mayfly (about 1" long)

Anne has a sore throat and has been coughing for over two weeks now. We thought is was a reaction to the pollen, but are no longer sure that is the case. It keeps getting worse, so we went up to the clinic here in Killarney and discovered they no longer have a doctor and their nurse was not in today. I looked into alternatives including cruising to Little Current (not a good idea with the weather) or a road trip 75 miles north to Sudbury to the hospital.

After talking to the Sportsman's Inn staff, Caroline stepped up and volunteered her time and car to drive us to Sudbury. It was unexpected, but important, so I accepted.  Caroline, a delightful young woman, grew up in Sudbury and, knowing the city, took us directly to the hospital emergency room. Unbelievably, they wanted $751 for a doctor to examine Anne.

For comparison, we tried the clinic just down the street, and they would do the same for $100. After lunch and within an hour, we were inside seeing a very nice doctor. He concluded that Anne's problem could be a bacterial infection, and antibiotics were prescribed and purchased at the pharmacy next door. Caroline, who had gone home briefly to say, "Happy Birthday" to her father, picked us up again, and even agreed to stop so we could get some fresh food before bringing us back to the marina. On the way back, we saw a black bear cub and two red tailed foxes. What a nice thing for Caroline to do, and what great service by The Sportsman's Inn. Many thanks again, Caroline!

Day 288 - June 29, 2014: Killarney and the Sportsman's Inn Marina

Leaving peaceful Mill Lake, we completed Collins Inlet, and crossed a few miles of the Georgian Bay along the coastline. The winds were picking up, although the waves stayed well below one foot. We entered Killarney Channel at Red Rock Pt. This Channel, between Ontario and George Island, is very narrow with occasional high currents, but leads to Killarney and provides safe harbor from the bay.

Red Rock Point Lighthouse at the entrance to Killarney Channel

Killarney was established as a fishing village, and there was no road here until 1962. Today it is mostly a tourist and boating destination. Our stop was at the Sportsman's Inn, which is something of a resort with rooms, a dining room and pub, and a marina with a small store. This is a holiday weekend with Canada Day coming up, and the marina is empty, and no one here can explain why. It rained heavily this afternoon with some lightning/thunder, and we were glad to be in this port.

Sportsman's Inn

Great Laker facing the narrow channel at Killarney

Herbert Fisheries Fresh Fish and Chips is famous here, and we walked over after the rain to get some whitefish to go.

Herbert Fisheries Fresh Fish and Chips

Anne has been researching a plan for the next few days. With increasing winds and rain in the forecast, we are in somewhat of a dilemma over what to do. Sometimes you don't decide till you wake up and look out the window.

Day 287 - June 28, 2014 Part 2: On to Mill Lake Anchorage

After the harrowing experience at Buoy 30, Rogers Cut with its hard right turn at the entrance, was tricky but thankfully uneventful. This area is littered with small islands and uncountable numbers of glacier rounded rocks protruding over the water. 

Entrance to Rogers Cut

Multitude of glacier rounded rocks

Soon we entered the Georgian Bay’s open waters again to move further north. This stretch is considered treacherous in bad weather as it is exposed to winds for 50 miles to the south. With more amazing luck, we worked our way up to the beautiful Bustard Islands in calm water, and if storms were not forecast in the coming days, we would have anchored here. We sighted the first Great Lakes sea gulls near these islands since leaving Lake Michigan in 2012. 

Sea Gulls near the Bustard Islands

Further up, we reentered the inside channel, crossed Beaverstone Bay, and entered the Collins Inlet. Collins Inlet was touted by one looping cruiser as the best over the entire Great Loop. It is different from what we have been seeing the last few days, with high rocky cliffs and many trees. It reminded us of the Tennessee River near Chattanooga only with more rocks. We went midway through the channel to anchor in Mill Lake without another boat in sight. As we sit here this evening, you can imagine how fortunate we are feeling, as the day could have been a really serious disaster.

Entrance to Collins Inlet

Collins Inlet from the stern

View of our anchorage in Mill Lake

Day 287 - June 28, 2014, Part 1: Danger at D30!

The morning was cool, and I awakened to the soft light of the early dawn. The sounds of nature’s beings were all around and made for a pleasant atmosphere. There was no hurry to get going, as we had only 45 miles up to the Mill Lake anchorage; however, we would be cruising through some of the prettiest areas of the Georgian Bay, and that was exciting. 

We came back out of Sandy Bay and rejoined the channel at buoy D4. The channels here follow the convention that red buoys mark the starboard (right) side of the channel and green buoys mark the port (left) side. I was at the helm and Anne was reviewing the charts for the day and keeping a sharp eye out as usual. With all going well, Anne stepped down for a few minutes into the saloon. Soon we would be nearing Rodgers Cut, one of the many narrow and difficult cuts we would encounter, and since I was anxious to know exactly where we were, I called Anne back to double check the charts. 

At the same time, I was approaching a narrow cut through two large rocks marked clearly with a red marker on the starboard and a green marker on the port. As I headed for the center, I foolishly took my eyes off the channel for a quick moment to talk with Anne. In that moment, I missed a red buoy D30, placed well to the left of this approaching cut. Seconds later, there was a large thud, with three more scraping thuds to follow. I quickly pulled back on the throttle, shifted into neutral, and a second later another thud followed as Great Laker ground to a stop. I had committed the error that everyone warns about. What ever you do, stay in the channel! 

Horrified, I quickly did a series of safety checks below to ensure we were not taking on water. Anne, fearing the same thing, wondered if we should lower the dinghy. Satisfied there were no leaks, we hurried to examine the situation outside. The boat was resting on the rear third of its keel on a flat topped rock. We had gone over the first flat rock but hung on the second. I measured the depths with a tape measure, and there was 3 feet 3 inches of water at the stern (our keel is 3 feet 6 inches), and 4 feet 6 inches at the bow. The boat would not rock, so I was convinced we could not get her free. 

View from hard-grounded Great Laker with buoy 30 on the port

Looking down at the rock shelf under the bow

The rock shelf near the stern

We called the marina in nearby Britt, and Graham, the owner, said he would gather two assistants and come out within the hour to see if he could help. He said there was no Boats U.S. towing service here and the Canadian Coast Guard only comes in emergency situations. He said if we were hard grounded, it would take floatation equipment he did not have to be brought in from another area. We both went to the bow to transfer weight forward, and waited and worried. After twenty or so minutes, I unexpectedly felt the bow start to very slowly swing around, nudged by a gentle breeze and the very slight motion of the water. This gave me hope that we had a chance to get Great Laker off the rock.

Meanwhile, an 18-foot outboard approached with a father, Anthony, and his young son aboard. They were from the same marina as Graham, and were returning from fishing north of us. Anthony examined the depths in the water behind us and offered help. I gladly gave him a 100-foot towing line (onboard for just such an emergency). With his gentle pull, and my nudging the throttle on Great Laker, we were able to slide off and glide back into the channel. What a blessed relief!

I took my diving mask and went under the stern and concluded that there was no damage to the prop or rudder. Just then Graham showed up, quickly recognizing that we were off the rocks and O.K., and we learned we were the 4^th or 5^th boat to get hung up near D30 this year. We gave our sincere appreciation to both Anthony and Graham, neither of whom would accept any cash for their services. I started the engine, gave thanks for our safety, and continued cautiously and sheepishly up the channel vowing never to miss another buoy.