Day 47 - October 30, 2012: Aberdeen Marina on the Tenn-Tom

We have been anchoring frequently. It is an enjoyable experience to find a spot to relax and have the peace and quiet of nature all around. Yet the actual act of anchoring is quite a bit more complex than just dropping the "hook" and pouring a glass of wine. Here is a summary of some of the considerations and complexities of the process. There are many books written on the subject, should your curiosity desire more...

There are many different kinds of anchors, all with different design and performance characteristics. There are great debates on the boating forums on which is best, and I can guarantee you almost everyone has a different opinion. It is like the "do you like Ford or Chevy" debates in the 60's which were impossible to resolve. To mitigate this, I have three different anchors on board to use depending on circumstances. Each has its benefits and drawbacks, and I choose one with these in mind.

Here is the main 44 lb Manson Claw anchor mounted on the bow. It has 300 feet of anchor chain, a Lofrans Tigres windless to raise and lower the anchor, and up and down foot switches. I also have a Fortress FX-23 as a main backup anchor, and a smaller Danforth anchor for use at the stern.

Great Laker primary anchoring system

Choosing an anchorage starts with looking in guide books and on the charts for one or more that meet your needs. It pays to investigate several since you never know if they will already be occupied when you arrive. Selection involves looking at the weather to figure out the wind direction and speed, as high winds can cause waves that are unpleasant and tug at the boat causing the anchor to slip. Water levels must be sufficient to get the boat into place, and getting grounded can be serious and expensive if a tow is needed. Finally, it is a plus to have some cell connectivity and perhaps a TV signal for the evening news.

Great Laker in an ideal private, wind-protected anchorage

Before dropping the anchor, one must determine the amount of anchor line to let out to ensure the anchor gets "set" and does not drag. The rule of thumb is to let out at least 5 times the water depth during average conditions, and more in a storm. The bottom conditions are also important to take into consideration. Mud is generally a good bottom for setting and holding. Sand is easy to get an anchor set in but the anchor is also more likely to drag. Thick grass can be hard to penetrate for a set, and rocks may be easy to grab, but also easy to lose hold.

The anchor-setting process involves Anne and me working closely together, and we have wireless headsets to stay in communication. Anne is on the bow controlling the windlass which lowers the anchor, and I am at the helm steering the boat into the desired location and backing it away as the anchor is deployed. On occasion, we also put out a second anchor from the stern to keep the boat from swinging in the wind and current.

When pulling the anchor, there is a bow seawater wash-down hose that helps get the mud and seaweed off the anchor chain before it gets into the chain locker. This can be a messy job as you might expect, with mud and sand running down the deck and on your clothes.

With 25 to 30 mph gusts today from Hurricane Sandy, we avoided anchoring and just pulled into the Aberdeen Marina and simply tied to a dock. The wine was great!

Day 46 - October 29, 2012: Whitten Lock and Midway Marina

This morning we went through the Whitten Lock, which dropped Great Laker an incredible 85 feet. This is the ninth highest lock in the U.S. Since starting in Lake MI at 581 feet above sea level, we have dropped 167 feet and still have 414 feet to go before the Gulf.

Whitten Lock has an 85 foot drop

We stayed at the Midway Marina about four miles past the Rankin Lock. Given a forecast of 33 degrees overnight, we decided it would be a good idea to get shore power so our boat heaters could keep us warm.

Day 45 - October 28, 2012: Tombigbee and Bay Springs Lake

The Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway is a 450-mile-long series of man-made channels, lakes, dams and locks, and existing rivers. It connects the Midwest to the Gulf Coast, starting at the Tennessee River and running through Mississippi and Alabama to Mobile.

Although authorized by Congress in 1946, it was subject to much debate over cost and environmental impact until it was finally initiated in 1971 by the Army Corps of Engineers. The construction involved moving more dirt than the entire Panama Canal, and when finally finished 14 years later in 1985, it ended up costing over $2B.

Loopers take advantage of this waterway to avoid the wide, shallow and heavily trafficked Lower Mississippi and provide a safer and simpler cruising route to the Gulf. We entered the waterway in a section called the Divide Cut, which looks just like a canal with high tapered banks lined with rip rap (stone fill). This section has consistent widths, long straight sections and gentle curves. You can tell it was the product of civil engineers, and they did a great job.

MS Hwy 25 Bridge and entrance to the Divide Cut

Typical canal-like banks with riprap

After this canal comes Bay Springs Lake which is formed by the Jamie L. Whitten Lock and Dam. It has many well protected coves, and we spent the night anchored in one also named Bay Springs. 

Evening sun at Bay Springs Cove

We are well aware of Hurricane Sandy which is threatening the east coast and which may impact the many who live there including home owners, businesses, and boaters (including loopers). The counterclockwise winds are also bringing the Arctic winds down to this area, and we have had high winds (25-30 mph gusts) and cold weather (mornings in the 30s and highs in the 50s). A couple of days ago we had colder highs/lows than Spring Lake! Gee whiz, we came south to wear shorts, not sweats.

Day 44 - October 27, 2012: Corinth

We took the rental car to visit the Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center at the site of the Corinth Battlefield. Corinth was important because two of the most important railways intersected here, and these were of vital importance to the Confederacy. If the Union gained control here, they would disrupt critical transportation of supplies within the Confederacy (east and west) and control the entrance to the Mississippi Valley.

Cannon used in the Battle for Corinth

The Confederates concentrated their forces here after the loss in Shiloh in April 1862, and the Union positioned its forces in October to take the town. This set the stage for a major battle resulting in 8,000 casualties and a retreat by the Confederate army. Corinth was so important to the south, that they tried later to retake it, but failed.

Corinth Railway Station and the railway intersection

Anne's nephew Jared drove down from Jackson, Tennessee, and we had lunch at a local café. I discovered a sandwich called a "Slug Burger" which apparently is quite famous in northern Mississippi. While the name suggests otherwise, they are made of chicken, pork and soy beans with onion, mustard and pickles and tasted great!

Anne with Jared

                                                                                     

Slug Burger

Later we watched a discouraging loss by Michigan to Nebraska. Still, we are tied for the lead in the Legends division of the Big Ten. GO BLUE!

Rather ominous sunset over the Grand Harbor Marina

Day 43 - October 26, 2012: Back to Grand Harbor Marina

Today we went back to Grand Harbor Marina at the entrance to the Tenn Tom so that we could go see the Shiloh Battlefield. The fall leaves are beginning to be spectacular, especially in the early morning light.

7:00 AM on the Tennessee River near Florence, Al

The Shiloh Battle, on April 6-7, 1862, was one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War with 23,746 casualties (more than all previous wars by the U.S. combined). It was fought when Confederate General Johnston stationed his army in Corinth, Mississippi to stop Union General Grant's army from advancing further south on the Tennessee River and through the Mississippi valley. While the Confederate Army almost overran the Union Army on the first day, the Union Army rallied with support from Gen Buell's Army on the second day to force a Confederate retreat. This was a signal to all involved that the Civil War was not going to be a simple uprising to be put down easily.

Here is a view of the Shiloh Battlefield which was in the visitor's center and is a combination of hand-crafted figures and trees in the foreground and a painting in the background. It is incredibly realistic and appears 3-dimensional, and this picture I took seems to capture that realism.

Simulated view of the Shiloh Battlefield

Following the battle, the Union Soldiers retrieved their wounded and buried their dead, while the dead Confederate Soldiers were left to eventually be buried in trenches. In 1866, the U. S. created a National Military Cemetery to preserve the buried remains. This cemetery marker says: 3,590 interments, 1229 known, 2381 unknown. The grave markers in the background make a somber statement.

Shiloh Military Cemetery

Visiting this battlefield was quite an emotional and sobering experience. It reminds us of the cruelty of war and the effect it had on our nation which in some respects has yet to be healed.

Day 42 - October 25, 2012: Florence, AL

While it was sad to depart the rendezvous, we headed out early to get on with our journey. Since there were 65 boats and many were also going back to Pickwick Lake to head down the Tenn Tom, we wanted to get into the Wheeler and Wilson locks before everyone else was up. We were underway by 6:45 AM and joined a group of 9 other early boaters.

Here is the Wilson Lock (a whopping 93 foot drop) as we are heading back down river. This is looking back just after we had exited the lock.

Wilson Lock - 93 foot drop

After arriving at Florence Harbor Marina, we borrowed the loaner car and visited Helen Keller's birthplace. With the support of her lifelong teacher, Anne Sullivan, she was able to learn to communicate despite blindness and deafness, graduate from college, and bring awareness to these issues world wide. I wasn't aware that in her speech to the Lions in 1925, she challenged the Lions to become "knights of the blind in the crusade against darkness." This started the nationwide Lions Club commitment to provide eyeglasses to the needy. 

Helen Keller Birthplace in Florence, AL

We also stopped by the Frank Lloyd Wright - Rosenbaum House. We normally think of his work being done mostly in the upper Midwest and were surprised to know that this was here.

Frank Lloyd Wright - Rosenbaum House

Later, we were invited to "docktails" with other loopers and then grilled filets on the BBQ. One thing about looping is we don't have to plan our social events or organize entertaining guests. Everyone just gathers together and enjoys their love of boating.

Life is Great!

Day 41 - October 24, 2012: Fourth and Final day of the AGLCA Rendezvous

Today's seminars covered Jacksonville, FL to Norfolk, VA. One very interesting talk covered the St. John's River, FL, which looks like a very untouched area full of wildlife. Loopers who go to the Spring Rendezvous in Norfolk, hear presentations starting where ours left off and they cover the rest of the loop.

During the Looper Crawl, we had a steady stream of boaters coming in to tour Great Laker and we enjoyed showing her. There was a lot of interest by two couples who want to do the loop but have not yet purchased a boat. There was even more interest in the Magic Mesh Screen Door I installed last year! It automatically closes by magnets when you pass through and I could have sold at least a dozen if I were in the business.  Hm, maybe this is a way to finance our trip?

This evening we attended the dinner, final awards, speeches and made our goodbyes. It has been a wonderful place to meet boaters, learn about the loop, and enjoy the area. We fully expect to run into many of these loopers again and again as we travel.

Tomorrow we are anxious to be on our way again - destination Florence, AL.

Sailboats in the stillness of early evening

Day 40 - October 23, 2012: Third day of the AGLCA Rendezvous

Today we attended additional seminars covering Tarpon Springs to Key West, the Bahamas, and Key West to Jacksonville. This was all valuable information.

Today and tomorrow many boat owners are voluntarily opening their boats for tours by other loopers. This is called the Looper Crawl, and we decided to participate tomorrow. So today, I washed the outside and all the windows and early tomorrow Anne will work on the inside.

We toured several boats today as well and saw some extraordinary vessels including several trawlers in the 42 to 56 foot range.

The Joe Wheeler Motel and pool in front of our dock

Day 39 - October 22, 2012: Second day of the AGLCA Rendezvous

Today we attended seminars covering sections of the Great Loop starting with the TennTom to Mobile and crossing the Gulf. These seminars were given by loopers with a lot of cruising experience in these areas and were very helpful to our planning.

Still, the best part of the day was relaxing on the upper deck at twilight.

Looking at nature's big screen HD TV

Day 38 - October 21, 2012: First Day of the AGLCA Rendezvous

Shortly after breakfast this morning we were greeted by the sounds of a calliope and looked out to discover a very unusual sight. A magnificent river boat named Annie, dressed up with hanging plants bow and stern, was parading by the docks. Up on the roof was a beautiful calliope playing the kind of music you might hear in a hometown circus. I'm sure this was intended by the owner specifically to entertain the many loopers here in the marina.

After doing some research, I discovered the calliope was hand built by the owner, is powered by steam, and runs off a computer in the pilot house. The close up picture of the calliope is taken from a post the owner made on a boating forum.

River boat "Annie" with calliope

Hand made, steam powered calliope

Today the rendezvous got underway with registrations, vendor displays, and lots of free gifts from AGLCA sponsors wanting to attract our business. We attended a dinner and each of us introduced ourselves to the group. There are over 250 people in attendance and 60 boats are currently doing the loop.

You can follow the reunion activities on facebook at:

http://www.facebook.com/events/456458151033117/

Day 37 - October 20, 2012: Visit to Rogersville, AL

Rogersville is about 5 miles east of the Joe Wheeler State Park and Marina, and the city set up a bus service for loopers to be able to come in and visit. We went in this morning and discovered lots to do and see. There was a chili cook off in the park, along with blue grass and country singers, a car show on the nearby streets, and some nice arts and crafts shops.

In the car show I discovered a restored 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air 2 door coup in fire engine red. This was exactly the car I was lucky enough to have when I was in college. Well, not exactly the car, as mine was a bit tired, had some rust, needed new shock absorbers, and ran somewhat uneasily on retreaded tires. Still, it was emotional to see it and remember some great memories of my college experience.

1957 Chevy Bel Air 2 door coupe in fire engine red

Lunch was a chili tasting in the park, and then we voted for the best one. To be honest, I prefer wine tasting, but it was really good.

Anne about to taste chili #6

Later we listened to the University of Michigan come from behind to defeat that other Michigan school 12 to 10.     Go Blue!

Day 36 - October 19, 2012: Moving in at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina

This is the site of the much anticipated American Great Loop Cruising Association (AGLCA) Fall Rendezvous. Boaters currently looping, boaters who have completed the loop, and boaters anticipating doing the loop gather here to listen to seminars, attend events, meet vendors and get to know each other.

http://www.greatloop.org/

We moved over from our nearby anchorage and were the first of over 25 boats expected in just today, with 7 having come in already yesterday. While the four day rendezvous doesn't begin until Sunday afternoon, many come in early to get settled, wash and clean boats, and do laundry, etc. That is exactly what we did as well.

This is Great Laker cleaned of river scum, mud and bugs. She is dressed in her best docking lines, adorned with her AGLCA burgee, University of Michigan burgee, and American flag. She is ready to be viewed by the many looping attendees.

Great Laker at her best

Joe Wheeler is located on Wheeler Lake in northwest Alabama, about two miles from Rogersville.

http://www.alapark.com/joewheeler/

Day 35 - October 18, 2012: Arrival and anchorage near Joe Wheeler State Park

Since we are backtracking down the Tennessee River, there is not a lot to say about our surroundings that I haven't covered before. I'm more attuned and interested in the performance of the boat than the scenery.

We spend a lot of time during the day doing trip planning and selecting either marinas or anchorages for the night. The internet is such a great resource for this assuming you are getting cell coverage, but between cities on the rivers we frequently are not. It is also frustrating that despite most marinas having WiFi, even when you can connect, the data rates often are miserably slow.

We chose to anchor out in a bay just a couple of hundred yards east of Joe Wheeler State Park Marina. Tomorrow we will go in and get a slip and prepare to attend the rendezvous. Dinner aboard is always a treat, and rotisserie chickens make preparation easier...

I've decided to name this anchorage "East of Wheeler" and it has great seclusion, good southern wind protection, and more emerging fall color.

Our anchorage just east of Joe Wheeler

What a wonderful world! 

Day 34 - October 17, 2012: On around to Ditto Landing Marina

Our trip back to Wheeler State Park took us back through Guntersville and the Guntersville Lock and Dam. Our day started out almost completely fogged in and we ran slowly concentrating on the chart plotter, radar and a sharp lookout. As it cleared, the fall color continued to reminded us of what we see on Spring Lake and around Michigan.

More fall color reflecting in the lake

We have been through many locks and remarkably had almost no waits longer than 20 minutes to get in. Today was our first with a two hour delay. This is not unusual as a tow locking through can take hours since the locks can only take a few of the tow's barges at a time. The tow has to dock, separate a few of the barges and put them in the lock. Once they are locked through, they must push them out, re-dock them and then return for another load until done. It takes real patience on the tow captain's part, the lock master's part, and the part of the waiting pleasure craft. Today's tow took two trips with four barges each time.

Ditto Landing Marina is very near Huntsville and the Space and Rocket Center; however, we have decided to take in Huntsville another time. The evening brought another of Anne's delicious dinners with salmon on the grill.

Sunset from our dock at Ditto Landing

Day 33 - October 16, 2012: On to an anchorage at Jones Creek

Today was a travel day on our way back to Wheeler State Park for the AGLCA Rendezvous starting Sunday.

The day was sunny and we got some great views of Lookout Mountain (site of one of the Civil War battles) and Signal Mountain (location the Union used to signal Confederate movements).

Lookout Mountain

Signal Mountain

On the way we were beginning to see fall colors starting to emerge. We had been told that the hillsides here can be quite stunning during the last two weeks of October and wish we could be around long enough to see them.

Beginning of fall color on the river

Our destination was an anchorage at Jones Creek. It was in a large bay, and you would probably miss it if you weren't careful, as it is almost hidden from the river behind a small island of trees. It had wide open views of the hills and was filled with many varieties of birds. We watched the Presidential Debate, thanks to digital HD TV on an amplified antennae powered by our house battery, and called it a day.

Day 32 - October 15, 2012: Last Day in Chattanooga

Today I spent the morning doing some maintenance chores on the boat. After heavy rain overnight, this became a beautiful sunny day so we decided to take a walk over to the north shore and explore the many shops and places to eat. I also found time to take a six mile bike ride down the River Walk.

Reflecting on our visit, we have found the people here to be friendly, the atmosphere to be quite upscale, and the restaurants and attractions to be first class. If you visit here, plan at least 4 days to see the area.

Here is Great Laker on the left on the Marine Maxx Bluff Docks and Lookout Mountain in the far background. The dock is quite safe with locked gates at each end, and security guards at night. Lots of boats visit here and tonight the boats around us are from Kansas, Mississippi, New Jersey, Massachusetts and Alabama.

 Great Laker and Lookout Mountain

Tomorrow we start back towards Huntsville to see the Space and Rocket Center and then Wheeler Lake for the four day AGLCA Rendezvous.

Day 31 - October 14, 2012: Even more of Chattanooga

Today we went to the Chattanooga Oktoberfest which is a combination of the weekly Farmer's Market, an Arts and Crafts Show, and German music, beer and brats. Great fun and good food.

Then we went back to the Tennessee Aquarium and visited the second of the two buildings. The exhibits are very well done and cover everything from seahorses, to large tanks with many kinds of sea life, to the individual river systems both here and around the world. Way too much to even try to describe.

Best known Seahorse

Seahorse disguised as sea weed

Common Tennessee River turtle

East Asian Mandarin Duck

Day 30 - October 13, 2012: More Chattanooga history and the Tennessee Aquarium

Chattanooga is a very impressive and upscale city. The community leaders here have clearly done a good job of developing the waterfront, starting with establishing the Tennessee Aquarium which opened in 1992. This modern fresh and salt water aquarium attracted visitors and spurred the development of parks, the Arts Bluff, and many upscale restaurants and shops.  Chattanooga also boasts having purchased the old bridge connecting the northern and southern parts of the city, and converting it into the nation's longest pedestrian bridge.

Fortunately, as in any community development, there are companies and patrons whose donations make these things possible. One interesting thing we learned was that Coca Cola, which originated in the Atlanta area, was first sold only at drug store fountains. A couple of attorneys in Chattanooga came up with the idea of bottling Coca Cola and approached Coca Cola for that purpose. They managed to get an exclusive contract in perpetuity for most of the United States. They built bottling plants and created distribution channels, which brought incredible wealth to the Chattanooga area.

Today we took a National Park Service historical walking tour of downtown Chattanooga, learning about why people came to this area and how they prospered. Then we visited the first of the two Tennessee Aquarium buildings.

Of high priority was listening to Michigan vs Illinois, and we won easily 45 to 0. GO BLUE!!! Thank goodness for Sirius Radio, as all the TV networks in this area broadcast is SEC games. I can't really blame them, as this is passionate football country just like the Midwest and the Big Ten.

Day 29 - October 12, 2012: Visit to the Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park

We spent the day visiting the Chickamauga Visitor Center and the site of the Battle of Chickamauga. We had the good fortune that one of our very good friends in Hermosa Beach, CA, grew up here, and her parents volunteered to pick us up for a driving tour of this site. Her father is a history buff and Civil War expert, so we got a thorough in-depth narrative. Thanks to Jim and Barbara for the wonderful day!

The Visitor Center, like all we have visited so far, is very well done with a movie, exhibits, artifacts, plus this one has the Fuller Collection of American Military Shoulder Arms.

Chickamauga Visitor Center

 

Interior Displays   

Outside there are six different kinds of cannons used in the battle, some made in the U.S. and some from Europe. Some of these are steel and some bronze. The bronze were favored by the troops because they did not get as hot and therefore could be reloaded faster. Can you imagine what it must have been like charging across a field into the face of dozens of these, carrying a musket that fired one shot and then took over a minute to reload?

Cannon Display

Certain death...

Claud E. and Zenada O. Fuller collected long rifles over many years and in their later years they donated a portion of the collection to the visitor center and supervised the display. There are six isles, one of which is shown below, with the rifles arranged by year of manufacture. Many of the 346 weapons on display are rare and unique. What a great opportunity to see how these rifles evolved over time.

Fuller Shoulder Arms Collection

These were made from 1821 to 1823

We drove the battle grounds, reliving the battle and viewing many of the park's 1,400 monuments and markers which were donated by states which contributed troops and placed by veterans of the battles.

Day 28 - October 11, 2012: Lookout Point and Point Park

Today is sunny and warm and just the perfect weather to visit Lookout Mountain, a 2,100 foot peak overlooking Chattanooga. This gave us a good overall view and understanding of the Civil War struggles here. We took a bus to board an Incline Railway for the twenty minute ride up. This railway is the steepest in the world, reaching 72.5 % at one point just before the peak. There is an excellent 3D battle map presentation which depicts the battles related to Lookout Mountain, and in the National Service Point Park you can walk to see the views and the site of the Battle of the Clouds.

One goes up as the other goes down

Over the 72.5 % grade 

Lookout Mountain was strategic to the South in defending Chattanooga during the war. From these heights, they could track Union troops and repel any attempts to move the Union supplies up the river or into the area by train. 

View from Lookout Point

Enjoying the View

During the Battle of the Clouds, the Union soldiers were able to take Lookout Mountain by sending troops up the steep hillsides. The Confederate cannons on top were mounted to hit the rivers or valley at a distance. As such, the Confederates were unable to tip these cannons down low enough to be aimed at the approaching troops, thus losing their advantage. 

Later we spent more time walking the city and found a wonderful Italian Restaurant called "Tony's" in the Bluff View Art District. Arriving back on Great Laker, we watched the Southern Belle pass by on one of its nightly river dinner cruises.

The Southern Belle