Day 47 - October 30, 2012: Aberdeen Marina on the Tenn-Tom

We have been anchoring frequently. It is an enjoyable experience to find a spot to relax and have the peace and quiet of nature all around. Yet the actual act of anchoring is quite a bit more complex than just dropping the "hook" and pouring a glass of wine. Here is a summary of some of the considerations and complexities of the process. There are many books written on the subject, should your curiosity desire more...

There are many different kinds of anchors, all with different design and performance characteristics. There are great debates on the boating forums on which is best, and I can guarantee you almost everyone has a different opinion. It is like the "do you like Ford or Chevy" debates in the 60's which were impossible to resolve. To mitigate this, I have three different anchors on board to use depending on circumstances. Each has its benefits and drawbacks, and I choose one with these in mind.

Here is the main 44 lb Manson Claw anchor mounted on the bow. It has 300 feet of anchor chain, a Lofrans Tigres windless to raise and lower the anchor, and up and down foot switches. I also have a Fortress FX-23 as a main backup anchor, and a smaller Danforth anchor for use at the stern.

Great Laker primary anchoring system

Choosing an anchorage starts with looking in guide books and on the charts for one or more that meet your needs. It pays to investigate several since you never know if they will already be occupied when you arrive. Selection involves looking at the weather to figure out the wind direction and speed, as high winds can cause waves that are unpleasant and tug at the boat causing the anchor to slip. Water levels must be sufficient to get the boat into place, and getting grounded can be serious and expensive if a tow is needed. Finally, it is a plus to have some cell connectivity and perhaps a TV signal for the evening news.

Great Laker in an ideal private, wind-protected anchorage

Before dropping the anchor, one must determine the amount of anchor line to let out to ensure the anchor gets "set" and does not drag. The rule of thumb is to let out at least 5 times the water depth during average conditions, and more in a storm. The bottom conditions are also important to take into consideration. Mud is generally a good bottom for setting and holding. Sand is easy to get an anchor set in but the anchor is also more likely to drag. Thick grass can be hard to penetrate for a set, and rocks may be easy to grab, but also easy to lose hold.

The anchor-setting process involves Anne and me working closely together, and we have wireless headsets to stay in communication. Anne is on the bow controlling the windlass which lowers the anchor, and I am at the helm steering the boat into the desired location and backing it away as the anchor is deployed. On occasion, we also put out a second anchor from the stern to keep the boat from swinging in the wind and current.

When pulling the anchor, there is a bow seawater wash-down hose that helps get the mud and seaweed off the anchor chain before it gets into the chain locker. This can be a messy job as you might expect, with mud and sand running down the deck and on your clothes.

With 25 to 30 mph gusts today from Hurricane Sandy, we avoided anchoring and just pulled into the Aberdeen Marina and simply tied to a dock. The wine was great!