Day 168 - March 30, 2013: Savannah sights

Today, people started appearing at the waterfront very early, as it was the weekend and it was destined to be the warmest, sunniest day since we returned from Michigan.

We headed out for a visit to the birthplace and home of Juliette Gordon Low, founder of the Girl Scouts and one of our nation's most remarkable women. This was of special interest to Anne, who was a Girl Scout herself and the Girl Scout troop leader of Elizabeth's troop when she was young.

Juliette Gordon, also affectionately known as Daisey, was born in 1860 and developed advanced skills in writing, painting and sculpting. She married William Low, lived for a while in England, met Sir Robert Baden-Powell there (founder of the Boy Scouts in 1911), and inspired, returned to the U.S. and started the Girl Scouts here in Savannah.

The home, first built in 1818 by the mayor of Savannah, is in the Regency style. William Gordon bought it in 1831, and it was used by four generations of Gordons until the Girl Scouts purchased the house in 1953 and began restoration for use as a program center and museum.

Juliette Gordon Low House

Gate commemorating the creation of the Girl Scouts 

After a tour of the interior, we walked south through the Savannah streets and squares filled with students, couples, families and tourists, stopped at the farmers' market, and circled back to Great Laker.

Fountain at Forsyth Park

River Street shop

River Queen Cruises

Later in the day, we stopped for a treat at Leopold's, which was established here in 1935, and which is currently rated in the top 10 of all ice cream parlors in the U.S. We had Rum Bisque, a totally new flavor to us, and its was as good as rum itself. Wow!

That evening we had tickets to attend a live music show, "Savannah Live," at the Savannah Theatre. This is the #1 recommended activity on TripAdvisor for Savannah. It is locally owned and produced, and combines a broad cross section of blues, Broadway, jazz, and rock. We sang along, clapped, and greatly appreciated the level of talent of all the performers.

Day 167 - March 29, 2013: Touring Savannah

Our plan was simple. Board the trolley for an overview tour of the historic district and take a break for lunch at the famous Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room, which has been in business here since 1943. However, sometimes there are surprises.

As we headed out, we noticed a surprisingly large number of visitors carrying maps and busily exploring the area.  It hadn't occurred to us that this was Easter holiday weekend and many people had Friday off. The horse drawn carriages were already out with people eager to see the town. We passed the statue in honor of Johnny Mercer, who wrote great lyrics to so many memorable songs, and who was born and buried in Savannah.

Johnny Mercer Memorial

Horse drawn carriages

We walked across the main street, across a couple of squares, and over to the Visitor's Center for maps and brochures. Nearby, we got tickets to the Old Town Trolley, which we had used and liked in St. Augustine. These trolleys provide well-narrated tours, and you can get on and off at the various stops. After four stops we got off and walked to Mrs. Wilkes. While we knew it was popular and there might be a wait to get in, we were shocked to see a line three people wide, down to the corner and all the way down to an alley. I was told it would be "over an hour." Because we were resigned to eat here, we got in line and waited patiently. This was to be great Southern food, served family style.

Anticipating lunch

About half the line we waited in

Persistence is to be admired. We waited three hours to get in but it was worth it! There was fried chicken, barbecue beef stew, collard greens, snap beans, butter beans, black eyed peas, squash, rice and gravy, okra and tomatoes, English peas and noodles, baked beans, macaroni and cheese, potato salad, candied yams, pickled beats, and Cole slaw, all on the table at the same time. We left feeling reminiscent of just having had a Thanksgiving Dinner.

While waiting, I got some good pictures of the restored housing in this neighborhood. I learned that the entries here are frequently on a second floor, probably because the streets were unpaved and noisy and odorous with horse traffic.

Row houses in the historic district

We have been reading Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. This New Yorker moved to Savannah and wrote about this town and his rather unusual experiences while here. The book is a humorous and factual story and a wonderful resource to understand what Savannah and its people are all about.

Day 166 - March 28, 2013: Savannah!

Coming back from Sunbury and turning up the ICW, we encountered no less than five other boats moving north, and we traveled one after another up the narrow winding waterway. These were loopers, some of whom had gone to the Bahamas, and boaters who went south to Florida for the winter. It was good to chat with them on the radio and compare experiences.

Anne has been looking forward to certain stops this entire trip, and Savannah is one. We put in a long day through some very winding and shallow areas, and as we got closer, we saw some true Southern-style mansions.

Classic Southern architecture along the ICW

Savannah was established in 1733 and was the colonial capital of the Province of Georgia and the first state capital of Georgia. It was a strategic port city in both the American Revolution and the Civil War. Today, while retaining its historical charm, it is an industrial city and an important deep water Atlantic seaport.

Turning west up the Savannah River, we arrived at the city dock late in the afternoon. This is in the heart of town, just a few short steps from the historic area and streets peppered with 22 park-like city squares. The Hyatt and Westin hotels tower above us, the convention center is across the river, and River Street, where locals and tourists enjoy walking along the waterfront, is right beside us. We had just tied up when two massive container ships passed by within 50 yards. This was the first of eight more to pass before we retired.

Foreign flagged container ship

We took a short walk up into town over the cobble and ballast stone streets. Ballast stones were placed in the holds of empty ships to maintain stability and discarded after the ships were loaded with cargo. The locals found them great for street surfaces in the 1700-1800s. We ate dinner at The Olde Pink House, a highly recommended restaurant by many accounts. The building started life as a house in 1771, was the site of secret meetings to secure independence from England, became a bank in 1811, was used for a number of businesses, and after suffering decay and neglect, was restored and expanded in 2008. The food was uniquely Southern and very delicious.

The Olde Pink House (1771)

Day 165 - March 27, 2013: Sunbury

Our day started early, departing with the temperature in the high 30s and with the winds building. It was time to move north again with the promise of warming weather. This part of Georgia has numerous channels through flat marshland, and the ICW winds like a snake through the grass. This was typical of the scenery we had for the entire day's cruise.

Georgia's flat marshland

We crossed the Brunswick River and St Simons Sound with 2 to 3 ft. waves, which reminded us of the Great Lakes. We were taking salt water spray over the bow, and it quickly clouded the windows of the clean boat I had washed yesterday.

The scenery was calming, but the navigation was a challenge. While the channels are wide in places, they were also very shallow and there is shoaling at intersections where inlets cross the ICW. The shoaling is constantly changing and not represented on the charts. As we entered the Mud River, known for its shallow depths, I was glad we were advised to go through this area as much as possible at high tide. In just a few seconds, you could go from 12 ft. to 5 ft., and frequently I needed to quickly pull back on the throttle while trying to decide whether to continue or seek deeper water. The river was milk chocolate brown, so there was no way to judge the depth by sight.

We had planned to anchor out, but just last night we learned of the Sunbury Crab Co. Restaurant & Marina, which is a seven-mile detour up the Medway River near St. Catherine's Sound. They feature fresh steamed blue crabs caught daily, wild Georgia shrimp, and local oysters. The food alone sounded so intriguing that we decided to give it a try. Sunbury was a favorite location for plantation owners to build second homes to escape the summer heat, and two of the signers of the Declaration of Independence owned land here. We spent time with the owners, Barney and Elaine, who have been here over 30 years. They are genuine Southerners and a pleasure to get to know. Anne had a wonderful mahi-mahi, and here I am shucking clams and making a general mess in the process. The wind is down, and the forecast is for temperatures to go up. Life is good.

Larry shucking clams

Great Laker at Sunbury Marina (taken from the restaurant)

Day 164 - March 26, 2013: Exploring Jekyll Island

This morning brought record lows in the 30s to the Southeast and the barrier islands. This morning, it was the same temperature here as in Chicago! Georgia marinas, unlike those in Florida, seem to have loaner cars, so we borrowed one to drive around the island. We stopped at Driftwood Beach on the north end, and despite the cold and bitter winds, set out for a walk along the water. We imagined how fun this would be on a warmer day.

Driftwood Beach on north Jekyll Island

Is this the weather we came for???

After a lunch of Georgia-style clam chowder, we got brave and took a bike ride along interior trails through the historic center. We encountered a small pond, and Anne sighted the first gator we have seen on this trip! This one was at least 8 feet long and appeared to be sunning itself along the edge.

An 8-ft. Georgia gator, the first alligator sighting of the trip!

We also stopped at the Georgia Sea Turtle Center, an institution devoted to the rehabilitation of injured sea turtles. The exhibits were well done, and we watched a feeding of recovering Loggerhead turtles.

Surgery center

Recovery tanks

Day 163 - March 25, 2013: The Trident Submarine and Jekyll Island

After touring the submarine museum on Saturday, Anne desperately wanted to see a real Trident submarine. Anxious to please her, I prevailed on my Navy friends for a favor (:-). And sure enough, as we departed down the St. Mary's River and entered the junction to the ICW, we encountered a Trident class nuclear submarine coming into the St Andrews Sound channel. The Coast Guard warned us to stay back until they passed and follow no closer than 500 yards. There was a lead vessel, port and starboard tender escort ships, three fast gun boats, and a Coast Guard trailing vessel. The conning tower is quite visible, and that is where the crew is conducting (hence "conning") operations. This was a very exciting encounter for us, and we trailed and watched until the fleet turned into their home port in Kings Bay. Thanks to the Navy for the show!

Coast Guard inflatable with bow machine gun ready and in place

Trident fleet moving about 10 knots

Port and starboard tenders providing escort

 Conning tower and periscopes

Still plagued with 35 mph wind gusts and waves, we moved on to Jekyll Island, the smallest of the barrier islands. First settled in 1738 by William Horton as a plantation, Jekyll Island was eventually sold in 1885 to a group of investors as a hunting resort for $125,000. They offered memberships in a Jekyll Island Club to 50 wealthy people in the North if they purchased 100 shares for $600 per share. A 60-room clubhouse, costing $45,000, was opened in 1888, and golf courses, tennis courts and a marina soon followed. The club members included the Rockefellers, Morgans, Vanderbilts, Pulitzers, and Astors, and it was estimated that at that time they alone represented 1/6th of the entire wealth of the U.S. We took a trolley tour of the area, and this is the original clubhouse with croquet matches still occurring today.

Jekyll Island Club House

Most members stayed in the clubhouse, but some built "cottages" and brought friends for luxurious winter vacations in this isolated retreat. The "cottages" were designed mostly for entertaining and sleeping, as meals were served in the clubhouse. Indian Mound Cottage was built by Rockefeller and faced the clubhouse across the lawns. San Souci Cottage was built by Morgan and faced the waterway. There were daily afternoon parties on the lawns, with formal dress, and attendance was by invitation only.

Indian Mound (Rockefeller)

San Souci (Morgan)

Day 162 - March 24, 2013: St. Mary's - a violent storm, then a sunny Palm Sunday

Not every day of cruising can be sunny, warm, calm and relaxed. The night brought rain and the morning a front of severe storms, lightning, hail and wind gusts from 50 to 60 mph. It hit hard around 9:30 AM, and as lightning and thunder clapped overhead, the wind built up white-topped waves in the river and beat Great Laker against the dock. We rocked as flags stood straight out, water spray flashed over the docks, and foam built up against the hull.

White caps in the river

Flags at attention with 50-60 mph gusts

Then, like a sign from heaven, the winds died and the sun came out -- just in time for us to get to the Palm Sunday services at St. Mary's Methodist Church. This is the oldest practicing church in the area (started in 1799), and the first church building is on the property along with the current church.

Methodist Church built in 1858

Later, we took a walking tour of the city and focused on the historic area. Here are three examples of the many homes that we saw, all built in the early 1800s and carefully preserved. After killing Alexander Hamilton in a pistol duel in 1804, Vice President Aaron Burr fled south to Cumberland Island, where he was turned away by Gen. Nathanael Greene. He then moved into the St. Mary's home of his friend Maj. Archibald Clark (see below), whose wife didn't approve of having Burr around. After just one night, he moved on.

West side of Osborne St. 

West side of Osborne St. 

Clark-Bessant House built in 1801

Day 161 - March 23, 2013: St. Mary's and submarines

This morning the forecast is for thunderstorms, the possibility of hail, and the potential for tornadoes. While we really enjoyed Cumberland Island and wanted to spend another day there, we decided we should get off the anchor and get into a marina for maximum safety. A direct lightning strike on Great Laker could disable most or all of the electrical system and electronics and could cost a bundle of boat dollars.

We headed for St. Mary's, a small town about seven miles west up the St. Mary's River. This town was the site of the last battle of the War of 1812. British naval warships invaded St. Mary's and claimed victory, only to discover later that the British had surrendered, the war was over, and no one had informed either side here before the conflict.

On the way, we saw the Cumberland Queen II, which is the way the public gets over to Cumberland Island. There were many people aboard, many seeking to camp on the island and loaded down with duffel bags and coolers. With this weather, they are in store for a wet, muddy experience. We arrived and docked just as the storm hit and soon had almost zero visibility. The rain came down so hard that the drops hitting the water bounced back up almost an inch!

Cumberland Queen II

Heavy rain in St. Mary's

After lunch, the rain slowed enough that we ventured out, armed with rain coats and umbrellas, and discovered a very nice, well cared for, historic community. This town is near the Naval Submarine Base "Kings Bay" that is the East Coast home to Trident submarines. Therefore, we were not surprised that St. Mary's has a Submarine Museum which we decided to visit. It was full of pictures, descriptions, models, and plaques and paraphernalia of submarines from 1864 to the present Tridents. There were several mock-ups of submarine control panels and an actual working periscope that looked out over the roof.

St Mary's Submarine Museum

A working periscope that could see the rain storm outside

While staying at Lang's Marina, we ate a fresh shrimp dinner at the Lang's Marina Restaurant.  The shrimp were caught by Lang's shrimp boats. What a good deal - each business feeds the others, as well as us.

Day 160 - March 22, 2013: Cumberland Island, Georgia

We have heard so many boaters rave about Cumberland Island, so we were excited to see this historic place. Cumberland is the largest of the barrier islands at 17.5 miles long and is accessible only by water. It has been occupied for thousands of years, with the Timucuan people living here when America was discovered, and later the British controlling the territory. Civil War hero, General Nathanael Greene loved this place, and after he died, his wife built a home here in 1783. Later, Thomas Carnegie (brother of Andrew Carnegie) and his wife, Lucy, acquired much of this land, and in 1884, built the famous Dungeness estate, a vacation spot for the rich and famous. The island eventually had homes for many of the Carnegie descendants. Unfortunately, in 1959, the Dungeness estate was destroyed by fire, possibly by angry poachers denied access to the island.

In 1971, after years of negotiation, the U.S. government persuaded the descendants to donate their land in order to preserve this unique area, and in 1972 Congress created the Cumberland Island National Seashore. Today, besides the Dungeness ruins, there are campgrounds, fishing and hunting locations, bicycle trails, a museum, and park tours and lectures. Most of the island remains largely as it was hundreds of years ago.

Great Laker on the visitor dock

The Museum and Headquarters back in the trees

There are no public cars allowed on the island, but there are many hiking trails, and bikes can be ridden on a few of the unpaved roads. The massive oak trees covered by Spanish moss are everywhere, and there are small herds of feral horses left to roam by the Carnegies.

Miles of walking/biking trails

Feral horses

The Dungeness shows its magnificence even in ruin, and it was easy to imagine the families and guests enjoying the home, grounds, recreation areas, and views out over the St. Mary's River and North Atlantic. Even today, people camping or visiting the island gather and enjoy spending the day here at the estate.

Entrance gate to Dungeness

View of the side and rear veranda

Day 159 - March 21, 2013: More around Fernandina

With Anne still under the weather, I took the initiative to take the bike out for a few items at Publix, which is about three miles away. It felt good to be outside in the sunshine and fresh air getting some exercise.

This was a good day to install a second towel rod in the head. I had ordered it some time ago and picked  it up while we were in Michigan. It makes me nervous drilling holes in a finished wall covered in vinyl, as mistakes cannot be covered up. However, I got to use the small electric screw driver/drill which Anne gave me for the boat, and it worked well.

As the day warmed up, Anne began to feel better, and we walked out again through this picturesque and historic community. The train station now houses the visitors' center, and many of the main street buildings have unusual and colorful exteriors.

The original train station

Downtown architecture

The Fairbanks House was built in 1885 for Major George Fairbanks who was the local newspaper editor. He loved to keep track of what everyone was doing, so he located his office high up in this tower to give him that opportunity. The house is now a bed and breakfast. We enjoyed Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach and definitely would return!

Fairbanks House (1885)

No matter what happens during the day, when nature provides these beautiful sunset displays, it makes you stop and give thanks for your life and all you are able to enjoy.

Sunset over the ICW west of Amelia Island

Day 158 - March 20, 2013: Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach

Amelia Island, named after Princess Amelia, daughter of George II of Great Britain, has frequently changed possession. This island is the southernmost of a chain of barrier islands reaching from South Carolina to the tip of Florida. In its long and varied history from 1562 to the present, it has been under eight different flags, the most of any area in the U.S. This reflects its importance as a deep water port of strategic location between northern cities and Florida.

We docked at the Fernandina Beach Marina and walked out, unfortunately in the rain, to explore.  A 50-block area of Fernandina Beach is recognized on the National Register of Historic Places. Besides a beautiful old-style downtown filled with many nice shops and restaurants, there are many unusual and well-preserved historic homes. We took a 90-minute trolley tour of the area, which was well narrated and very informative. There is also a walking tour that covers 43 historic spots of which 22 are homes. One or the other is a must-see for any visit. You could easily spend several days here enjoying this town and the ocean beaches.

Fernandina Beach Marina with Great Laker (upper center)

Center Street from the marina

Oldest operating saloon (1918) in America

Waas House, 1856

Bailey House, 1895