Day 197 - April 28, 2013: Ferry to Norfolk, VA

Today we relaxed during the morning and then took the Elizabeth River Ferry over to Norfolk. It is a 10 minute ride with views of Portsmouth, Norfolk and the shipyards.

Norfolk skyline and the Elizabeth River Ferry

One of the leading attractions in Norfolk is the Nauticus, which is a maritime museum and the site of the Iowa Class Battleship Wisconsin. We spent most of the afternoon touring the ship, which was one of the largest and the last battleship ever built by the U.S. Navy, and seeing the museum.

Battleship Wisconsin

Nine massive 16-inch guns

The Wisconsin was commissioned in April, 1944, joining the 3rd Fleet late in WWII. It supported Pacific operations including Iwo Jima, Okinawa and the bombardment and occupation of Japan, before being decommissioned after the war in 1947. It was recommissioned in 1951 to support troops with bombardment in the Korean War, and then again decommissioned in 1957. With the advent of the Gulf War, it was once again called on to serve and was recommissioned in 1988 and participated in bombardment and missile strikes during Operation Desert Storm. In 1991, the Wisconsin was set in reserve, and in 2000 she was berthed at Nauticus with full ownership being transferred to the City of Norfolk in 2010.

Tomorrow we are driving back to Michigan for a nine day visit. We will be spending some time together in Spring Lake and then helping Elizabeth move into a new apartment for the summer in Ann Arbor. So, tonight Anne cleaned the boat interior, and we packed in preparation for tomorrow's travel.

We have cruised 197 days and traveled 4,171 miles to date and will look forward to continuing the Adventures of Great Laker soon!

Day 196 - April 27, 2013: The Portsmouth area

After a number of days cruising, we needed some time to catch up. I spent the morning washing the boat, which was heavily coated with salt, wind blown dirt and dead insects. In addition, I cleaned the in-hull speed sensor and removed the bow thruster for some maintenance. Anne was busy with laundry and reorganizing and getting rid of unnecessary travel books and brochures.

We are staying at the Ocean Marine Yacht Center, which is right in the heart of Portsmouth, and there are a number of boaters living on boats here or cruising through the area. The couple next to us is preparing the sailboat they purchased in Florida to cross the Atlantic and go back to their home in England. They have never done this before and were sitting in the cockpit today reading a book on how to cross an ocean. I admired their courage, but then remembered we started on a 6,500-mile cruise without having done that before as well.

Our marina in Portsmouth, with Great Laker visible in the back row next to the office building

Mid-afternoon, we took advantage of the sunshine to walk the Portsmouth Waterfront and Historic Home District. There is a Naval Shipyard Museum and a Lighthouse Museum and several blocks of shops and restaurants, all within easy walking distance. From the marina and the waterfront, we could see the shipyards supporting the Navy Station at Norfolk, VA, directly across the Elizabeth River. There are two patrol boats in the river monitoring boat traffic here at all times, and if boaters get too close to the ships, they get a stern warning to stay away.

Ships undergoing refitting and a patrol boat in the channel

For dinner, we ate German food (for the first time on this cruise) at The Bier Garden, one of the highly recommended restaurants in town. This is great if you like beer, as they have between 400 - 500 beers of all types on the menu! The beer, brats, cucumber salad and red cabbage were delicious.

Day 195 - April 26, 2013: The Dismal Swamp and Portsmouth, VA

They call it the Dismal Swamp, but today it was most pleasant. We awoke to dead calm winds and full sunshine, a perfect day for this much anticipated part of our cruise. We spent the entire day crossing the Dismal Swamp in this man-made canal, which runs from the Pasquotank River in Elizabeth City, NC, almost to Portsmouth, VA. The history of this area is rich and also somewhat tragic.

The Dismal Swamp covers the coastal plain in northeastern North Carolina and southeastern Virginia and is estimated to have at one time occupied over 1 million acres. In 1763, George Washington purchased 40,000 acres, formed the Dismal Swamp Company with the idea of draining it for settlement, and supervised the initial canal work. He later sold this land to the father of Robert E. Lee. In 1793, North Carolina and Virginia authorized completion of the canal, which was accomplished in 1810. With this efficient transportation highway, the focus turned to logging, and soon the entire swamp had been depleted of all desirable trees. The swamp also began to drain and shrink, drastically modifying the natural wilderness and animal habitats. In the 19th century with pressure from conservation groups, the government bought the canal and later formed a national wildlife refuge. Over time, Elizabeth City lost the rich trade the canal offered, and there have been two recent government attempts to close the canal.

The canal entrance wound around, narrowed, and then became straight as an arrow for 20 miles up to a visitors center. The guide books warned to keep a lookout for hidden tree stumps, submerged logs, and floating debris. We saw turtles, ducks, geese and herons, large butterflies and a myriad of birds.

Winding entrance to the canal

20 mile long straight section

Mama, papa, and baby turtle

Two geese taking flight

The tree roots and peat deposit large amounts of tannin in the water, which turns it the color of dark tea or a full-bodied Shiraz wine. We could see it in the water breaking on the bow, and it leaves stains on the fiberglass. After going through a lock designed to keep the water levels high in the swamp, we stopped at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center, which is part of a state park. There were hiking trails, bike lanes, and a museum devoted to the area.

Tannin in the water breaking off the bow

Great Laker on the Welcome Center dock

The canal continued for another 20 miles through a second lock, and it became so narrow in places, you could barely negotiate a pass of another boat. It will be quite a shock to emerge from this serene canal and soon find ourselves in the busy shipping port of Portsmouth, VA!

Extremely narrow sections of the canal

This was one of our favorite days on this trip, and we arrived treasuring the experience.

Day 194 - April 25, 2013: Touring Elizabeth City

This morning Anne did extensive trip planning, and I spent some time catching up on overdue maintenance items. The bow thruster has been giving us some trouble and the davits that attach the dinghy to the swim platform needed tightening. I did some diagnostics (thanks to the internet), ordered a part for the bow thruster, and plan to work on it again in Norfolk. The davits were a matter of wrenches and patience. Overall, I would rather do this than mow the grass...

Elizabeth City, incorporated in 1793, was initially known as a trading site and a shipping port, as it was located on the Pasquotank River with access to the Atlantic. When the Dismal Swamp Canal was improved in the early 19th century, Elizabeth City had a direct link north to Norfolk, and ship building and commercial trade flourished. Today, the largest Coast Guard Air Station on the East Coast is located here.

After lunch, we headed out for the Museum of the Albemarle, which is in a very spacious and modern building in the heart of town. The many displays and artifacts depict the story of the region's fisherman, farmers, lifesavers, and soldiers. We walked the town and enjoyed the exercise as we had been weathered in for several days. 

Museum of the Albemarle

18th century skiff used for Shad fishing

We ate a wonderful dinner at Cypress Creek Grill, where Anne had Red Snapper and I had a Texas Style Smoke Beef Brisket. As we walked back to Great Laker, a full moon was rising over the river.

Full moon rising over the Pasquotank River

Day 193 - April 24, 2013: A Long Day to Elizabeth City

Today proved to be our greatest mileage day yet on the loop. We didn't plan it that way; it just unfolded as we went. This area of the ICW is known for two broad water crossings that can be as treacherous as any waters on the Great Loop, so we needed to be careful.

It was early, and the wind was still low and on the stern as we crossed the Pamlico River. This made this first crossing go smoothly. Next, we traversed the Pungo River past Belhaven to the Pungo River - Alligator River Canal. This canal is a man-made ditch, 20 miles long, with only one small bend full of stumps and fallen trees. Winds were not a problem here, and we found it to be a desolate area with much wildlife.

Pungo River - Alligator River Canal 

Deer drinking along the shore

Our plan was to anchor in the Alligator River just short of the second crossing called Albemarle Sound. As we approached the anchorage, the winds were still on our stern, but rapidly building with gusts to 30 mph, and they were forecast to be as high tomorrow but on the nose. Although we had already traveled 70 miles in 7 hours, I decided today was the more favorable crossing and pushed on. It proved to be a good decision despite the high waves. Our final destination became Elizabeth City, and we arrived at dusk, having traveled 103 miles and 12 hours! We went to the free city docks and got some well-deserved rest.

High winds and waves on the stern while crossing the Albemarle Sound. 

Day 192 - April 23, 2013: Campbell Creek Anchorage

We are wondering when this wind will cease! The forecast promised some lessening this afternoon, and we joined other boaters on the docks strategizing on whether to try and go north.

Early afternoon, an American Tug 34, named Tug for Two, came in from Beaufort and the captain said there were strong rolling waves in the river. His wife didn't like it one bit and confessed she was hiding all the way. We looked over each other's boats and shared what kinds of improvements we had made.

Another American Tug 34, named Tug for Two

All of the captains along the dock decided to wait till tomorrow; however, we saw the wind speeds dropping mid-afternoon, began feeling brave, and quickly departed. The wind was on the nose, the waves were 2 to 4 ft., but Great Laker is built for this kind of sea, and we felt secure. Our anchorage was in Campbell Creek, up the Bay River just before the Pamlico River crossing which we plan to cruise early in the morning before the winds come up.

Campbell Creek anchorage

Day 191 - April 22, 2013: Oriental, NC

Because of the high winds and rain, our plan had us anchoring overnight in the Adam's Creek Canal before entering the Neuse River and Pamlico Sound. When we turned up Adam's Creek, we had a strong tidal current and winds on the bow, and it was slow going. This area is desolate, and the few boats we saw were either commercial trawlers or fast-running sports fishers.

Commercial fisher

Fast sport fisher

As it turned out, Anne's friend Kathy and her husband Max were here from California to see their son play baseball at Duke University. In a break between games, they were out sightseeing, called us, and said they would be able to meet us later today in Oriental. So we modified our plan, passed up the anchorage, and crossed the Neuse River. With winds of 20 - 30 mph, gusts to 35 mph and rolling waves, it was a wet ride. The spray showered the windows and flew over the pilot house. This reminded us of some of our trips on Lake Michigan.

High waves and winds crossing the Neus River

We arrived safely, docked at the Oriental Marina in the rain, and soon Kathy and Max arrived. We spent some time catching up and then enjoyed dinner at the Toucan Grill.

Anne and Kathy

Day 190 - April 21, 2013: Harkers Island

With high winds here for another day, we decided to take the car for a drive up to Harkers Island, which is near Cape Lookout on the southern part of the Outer Banks. We drove to the very east end where there was a visitor center for the Cape Lookout National Park. We were disappointed to see that the center had recently changed its hours and is now closed on Sunday. Still, we could see the Cape Lookout Lighthouse across Core Sound.

Cape Lookout National Park Visitor Center

Cape Lookout Lighthouse across windy Core Sound

Right next door is the Core Sound Waterfowl and Heritage Center, which was created by 13 communities along the sound. Inside there are duck decoy carvings and boat building exhibits, local area pictures and paintings, and photos and documented interviews describing the Beaufort fish processing industry. We were told that there was a desperate need to celebrate and preserve the history of the fishing industry (for Menhaden fish) which once flourished here. The center is a large and interesting place, and we spent over two hours there.

Core Sound Waterfowl and Heritage Center

Trawler models

Day 189 - April 20, 2013: Side trip to New Bern

With a car in hand, we decided to take a side trip to New Bern about 35 miles north of Morehead City. First stop was the new North Carolina Historical Center that serves as a visitor center and historical museum for the area. The movie and displays were first rate, covering the history, landscapes and buildings. Next, we took a tour of the Stanly House, and the Tryon Palace.

The Stanly house was built in the 1780s for John Wright Stanly, who was a powerful businessman whose merchant ships raided British ships to aid the American cause during the Revolutionary War. This house, decorated in period pieces, is one of the finest examples of Georgian architecture in the South. In 1791, President George Washington stayed at this house while on his Southern tour.

Stanly House (1780s)

The Tryon Palace is the centerpiece of historic places in this area. It served as the first permanent capitol of North Carolina and the home of Governor Tryon. It consisted of a main house, a kitchen house on the left, and a stable house on the right, plus acres of beautiful gardens in the style of European castles. It was the site of the first sessions of the General Assembly after the Revolution and housed the state governors until 1794. The palace burned down in 1798 and over 70 homes were built here. A 30-year campaign to rebuild to the original plans on the original foundations, resulted in completion in 1959 of what we saw today.

Tryon Palace

Gardens

Fountains

Our last stop was to see the site of the invention of Pepsi Cola by Caleb Bradham in 1898. Here we learned more about the inventor and even saw the original recipe.

Site of invention of Pepsi Cola

Original Pepsi Formula

Day 188 - April 19, 2013: Morehead City, NC

With another major storm front reaching from Canada to Florida and approaching from the west, we decided to move early in the morning into the safety of Portside Marina which was 3 miles west in Morehead City. The forecast included severe storm warnings and possible tornadoes coming overnight.

When we arrived, we docked near a 153 ft. blue-hulled three-story yacht, with a crew of seven, that had been towed in with engines and generators out of commission due to fuel problems. The salt water chambers of the heat exchanger that cools the diesel fuel had apparently corroded through, causing sea water to enter the fuel. Workers were busy draining and cleaning the 20,000 gallon fuel tanks and using a hoist to replace the heat exchanger. Plus, they will need to clean all the injectors on the engines and generators. This repair will be quite expensive, and I was told the owner, who is waiting for the boat to be delivered up north, is not happy.

153 ft. yacht in for repairs

New fuel heat exchanger

Since we are in port for at least three days, we rented a car to explore the area. Our first stop was Fort Macon, which was the third fort built here to protect Beaufort from attacks by sea. It was completed in 1834 and was only under attack twice, first by the South and then by the North, during the Civil War. This fort was fully restored and is now a North Carolina State Park. The history and life in the fort was depicted in a series of rooms, with decorations and audio narrations.

Entrance to Fort Macon

Interior of Fort Macon

Our next stop was the beachfront along Atlantic Beach, where we watched bathers and surfers enjoying the high waves.

Ocean at Atlantic Beach, NC

Finally, we went to the NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores. This aquarium takes you through aquatic animal life in regions from the NC mountain peaks to the ocean shores. The largest aquarium tank in NC is here and holds over 2.5 million gallons of water and 200 species of fish. We really enjoyed the exhibits here and found it very educational.

Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores

Lionfish

Over 2.5M gallon aquarium

Day 187 - April 18, 2013: Beaufort, NC

It was only 1 1/2 hours up to Beaufort, NC, and we got an early start on a warm and sunny day. Beaufort is the third oldest town in the state and shares a large protected harbor with Morehead. A couple of weeks ago we visited Beaufort in SC, where they pronounce it "Bew-fort," However, here they pronounce it "Boh-fort," and it is critically important to get it right lest they get offended.

Beaufort is located in NC's Inner Banks region, which is at the south end of the Outer Banks. While small, it has much to offer and is a popular stop for cruisers, being about half way between Wilmington, NC, and Norfolk, VA. We decided to anchor between Beaufort and the Rachael Carlson Coastal Reserve, a small island dedicated as a wildlife refuge, and when we arrived we saw a wild horse eating grass near the beach. There are walking trails and sandy beaches to explore here.

Great Laker on anchor at Beaufort, NC

Little Laker at the town dinghy dock

After a great lunch at the Beaufort Grocery, we visited a branch of the North Carolina's Maritime Museum, which focuses on NC's cultural maritime heritage, coastal environment, and natural history. There are many elaborately built and award-winning models of ships of all kinds used over the years in this area.

One of the largest and most interesting exhibits traces the discovery of the wreck of the frigate Queen Anne's Revenge, which was built in London in 1710, captured by the French and modified to be a slave ship. The famous pirate, Blackbeard, attacked and took over the ship in the Caribbean and used it as his flagship to rob merchant ships along the southeast coast. In 1718, he beached and sunk it here just outside the Beaufort Channel in an elaborate and successful ruse to take all the booty without sharing it with his crew. After much analysis and research, and against all odds, it was discovered in 1996, and since then divers have recovered several cannons and over 16,000 fascinating artifacts. There are many of the retrieved artifacts on display, and we think this is a must see for anyone stopping here.

North Carolina Maritime Museum

Ship models, some full size

10 ft long wooden model of the fishing boat Menhaden

Six foot long model of the trawler Miss Teresa II

Brian and Ida, our friends from California, alerted us a few weeks ago that we should be on the lookout for their friends, Walter and Claudia, who had purchased a boat named IBIS in Naples and were in the process of cruising it up the east coast. By some amazing coincidence, we spotted them here this afternoon and spent some time visiting.

Walter on IBIS

Day 186 - April 17, 2013: Spooner Creek, near Morehead City

Back in the ICW, we passed a steady parade of homes on the west side, north of Wrightsville Beach. Some were quite magnificent, with the grandeur of three stories, many balconies, and long docks reaching out for deep water. The ospreys like to nest on the day marks, and they gather sticks and weave them intricately into bundles that balance on the piles. Fisherman in waders and broad rimmed hats dig for clams in the soft sand at low tide.

North of Wrightsville

Ospreys in love

Docks that reach for deep water

Fisherman seeking clams

We passed Topsail Beach, crossed the New River Inlet, and went through the Marines' training grounds at Camp LeJeune. The ICW is sometimes temporarily closed here when the firing range is active. As we entered the area, two marine armed gunboats, painted in camouflage, raced around a bend behind us at full speed, and we were quite anxious until they suddenly slowed and reversed their paths. Today, not only was the ICW open, but the marines were actively firing machine guns at drones out over the ocean. We could see the drones rise into the air, before swooping down over the water, and hear the rapid gunfire echoing back over our heads. One of the drones exploded in a puff of smoke over the trees.

Marine exercises at Camp LeJeune

Puff of smoke where a drone was shot down

We came to rest at anchor in Spooner Creek, just a few miles short of Morehead City, after a fairly long but enjoyable day of cruising. This creek has a small marina at the mouth and homes along the shore. One other sailboat came in late and joined us for the night.

Spooner Creek Anchorage