Day 149 - February 27, 2013: Last day in St. Augustine

Today brought some sunshine, but it was still cool and windy. We went into town and rode the trolley to the fort. There were lots of people on the streets taking advantage of this historic town and its tourist attractions.

This fort, named Castillo de San Marcos, was completed in 1695 by the Spanish in a location which previously held nine different wooden forts and was occupied at various times by the Spanish, French and British. This was a strategic location along the Florida coast and Gulf Stream, with an inlet and an interior harbor, and control of this port was critical to control of the Florida area. The Spanish constructed the fort out of coquina, which proved to be almost totally impervious to canon ball bombardments, and protected it with 80 canons. Later, it was occupied again by the French, British, and Confederates. Today it is a U.S. National Park. 

Corner with a diamond shaped Bastion

Anne guarding the moat

Looking out over the Matanzas Bay and Inlet

Demonstration of arms

After a late breakfast at Mary's Café, we went to see the Memorial Presbyterian Church built in 1889. It was given to the community by Henry Flagler as a memorial to his daughter who died in childbirth. The church design follows the Spanish theme of his hotels and his home and contains a mausoleum for Henry and his family. 

Flagler's Memorial Presbyterian Church

With calmer weather, we moved onto a mooring ball and got great panoramic night views of the town.

Day 148 - February 26, 2013: More of St. Augustine

A tornado watch with high wind gusts and rain squalls caused us to cancel our morning plans.

Between the TV Weather Channel and apps on our laptops and smart phones, we were able to track the Doppler radar and accurately predict when the storm cell would pass. Sure enough, by noon, the sun was out, and we headed downtown.

The very exclusive, Mediterranean-style, Ponce de Leon Hotel was built here in 1888 by millionaire developer Henry Flagler. It was built using poured coquina stone (cement and crushed coquina shells), wired for electricity by Flagler's friend Thomas Edison, and filled with European artifacts and Tiffany glass colored windows and crystal chandeliers.

Flagler College (Ponce de Leon Hotel)

Water Tower

During WW II, the hotel was used as a Coast Guard Training Center, and by 1963, it had become Flagler College for women. It has matured into a co-ed college, which is well-respected, and the former hotel remains the centerpiece of the college's operations. We took a very nice tour narrated by students.

Lobby ceiling and second floor balcony

Dining Hall

Our next stop was a place of special interest: The Whetstone Chocolate Factory. This homegrown factory makes chocolate products for many well-known companies worldwide. As chocoholics, we were interested in the tour which included the factory, equipment, and manufacturing process, and of utmost importance, a chance to taste some chocolate! We left armed with four bags of excellent dark chocolate, two for each of us. Life is sweet!

Factory tour

Chocolate mixing

Day 147 - February 25, 2013: St. Augustine

We moved north, anticipating our first time ever visiting St. Augustine. Immediately, above Palm Coast, the ICW widens and winds its way past the Mantanzas Inlet. Then it goes up through the Mantanzas River to the St. Augustine Inlet. It rained on and off, and more rain and much colder weather is in the forecast.

Birds discussing where to fish today?

St. Augustine has a very special history, as it is the oldest continuously occupied European-founded city in the continental U.S. As we approached the city marina, we could see the skyline made up of multiple unusual structures, many of which we learned were built by Henry Flagler, who lived here while developing much of the east side of Florida.

St. Augustine skyline looks like a city in Europe

There is much to see, and much of it is justifiably labeled "the oldest." We took the trolley tour around town to get oriented, and then visited the Old Jail, the History Museum, and the Old Store. Then, we walked past the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse which appeared in tax records as early as 1716.

The Old Jail

The Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse

It was a rainy walk back to the boat, and we are looking forward to more touring tomorrow.

Day 146 - February 24, 2013: Ormond Beach and the Palm Coast

We got an early start under clouds and light rain, and with no boat traffic, we departed Daytona to head up the Palm Coast. This stretch has lots of protected areas with thick high foliage that resembles the foliage around Tarpon Springs. In some areas, the ICW is very narrow, with the channel markers almost right on the ends of docks, and homes are packed tightly between adjacent roads and the water.

Many miles of protected areas

Homes squeezed between the road and the ICW

Throughout the trip, I have been fascinated by the many different docks and boathouses. Here, as if by mutual agreement, all the boat lifts are covered by tiled roofs. They line both sides for miles. Perhaps it is because of the frequent rain? We passed through Ormond Beach and Flagler Beach and arrived at Palm Coast Marina before noon.

Miles of nearly identical boat lifts with tiled roofs

A high school friend, Bill, and his wife, Linda, who live in Ormond Beach, picked us up and took us to a Target superstore where we did a major restocking. While most marinas have a grocery store within biking distance, none have had the variety of items we need at this stage of the trip. Additionally, Florida marinas rarely have a courtesy car, and it was nice to have a way to transport lots of bags.

After taking the supplies back to the boat, we took a tour of the area. I was quite surprised to find out you can still drive a car on Daytona Beach where all the racing began. This was fascinating, and we stopped to enjoy the beach.

Driving on Daytona Beach

Linda and Bill with Larry

After passing through Daytona Beach, we stopped to see a live oak tree, named the Fairchild Tree, which is estimated to be 1000 to 2000 years old. It sits in an idyllic setting and is covered with Spanish moss.

The Fairchild Tree

Bill and Linda had us to their home for a great dinner, and we had fun catching up and reminiscing. They definitely made this a special day!

Day 145 - February 23, 2013: Daytona Beach

By some strange quirk in timing, we headed up to Daytona Beach on the weekend of the Daytona 500. While we didn't go to the races, it was still exciting to know they were happening within a mile or two of the ICW.

As we awoke and readied to pull the anchor, there were already seven small private fishing boats around us. Mosquito Lagoon was cloudy and still, and it was apparent that large sections of the ICW here are protected or yet to be developed. There were few homes lining the shore, and they were mostly trailers or smaller one-story houses probably built in the 1960s. Most of the boats we saw at the docks were pontoon boats or outboard fishing boats. Again, a very different lifestyle, and very different from the metropolitan cities to the south.

Dual wide trailers

Trailers with additions

We had planned a stop, at the city of New Smyrna Beach's free dock, to go to their farmers market. It turned out that there was also an art show going on and the streets were filled with displays and curious people. We had lunch, purchased fresh produce, and Anne found some creative jewelry.

New Smyrna Art Show

Anne looking at jewelry

Approaching Daytona Beach, we expected to see many boats and evidence of the large crowds that attend this event. Fortunately, there were few boats, the anchorages were mostly empty, and the traffic on the four large bridges was light. After dinner and sunset, we enjoyed the colorful lights of the city around us.

Day 144 - February 22, 2013: On to an Anchorage in Mosquito Lagoon

After washing the boat, I walked up to the S. F. Travis Hardware Company for a couple of items. This business was established in 1885 on this location in Cocoa by Col. Travis who served in the Civil War. It  is one of the oldest businesses on the East Coast still owned and run by descendants of the founder. You could spend hours just walking through the aisles in these original seven buildings which are filled with an amazing collection of products and dusty, but still useful, items from the past.

S. F. Travis Hardware Co.

Great Laker at the Cocoa Village Marina

Shortly up the Indian River near Titusville, we spotted the NASA Vehicle Assembly Building. Since we have visited the Space Center in the past, we chose not to take the time to visit again on this trip.

NASA Vehicle Assembly Building and Launch Pad

The man-made Haulover Canal takes you east from Indian River over to the Mosquito Lagoon where you can again follow the ICW north.

Haulover Canal to Mosquito Lagoon

Sunset over Mosquito Lagoon

Just before sunset, we anchored just 165 yards off the ICW with winds of 12 to 15 mph (and 25 mph gusts) which fortunately later dropped to 5 to 6 mph after midnight. This anchorage was fully exposed to these south winds, but I felt confident our anchor would hold. This would be a great spot to watch a satellite launch, as we could still see the NASA launch pads.

Day 143 - February 21, 2013: Cocoa

As we left Vero Beach and headed out into the ICW, it was sunny and warm for such an early time of the day. The water was glass, there was no wind, and this was such a welcomed change from the last couple of weeks. Today would turn out to be one of the nicest cruising days of the trip.

We began to encounter pods of dolphins. They seem to gather around bridge abutments and in the vicinity of channel markers. As they hear the boat approaching (sound carries six times better in water than in the air), they surface to breathe and dive down to swim alongside and surf the bow or stern wakes.

There is something special about the dolphins that makes them seem human and causes one to associate with their behavior. We would rush out to see them each time they approached and watch till they tired of the experience and disappeared off to the side.

Dolphin surfing the boat wake off the port side

Mom teaching her child to surf

The homes here along the Indian River have their own unique characteristics. Unlike the Mediterranean styles of the Miami and Fort Lauderdale area, with the Spanish tile roofs, heavy stone railings, fences and statuary, these homes have a distinct Southern traditional style, with columns, porches, multi-pained windows and gables. They have an elegant but casual feel which we liked.

Homes north of Vero Beach

Traditional elegance

We passed Melbourne Beach and Satellite Beach, where Anne spent the first five years of her life while her father served as a pilot at Patrick Air Force Base. Her first exposure to boating was here, as the family owned a trailer-able boat and spent time cruising and fishing in this area.

We arrived in Cocoa, and as we docked in the Cocoa Village Marina, we were greeted by Bill and Joyce on Carried Away, who we first met back at the AGLCA Rendezvous in October. We walked the very nice shopping areas and then joined them for an Asian dinner.

Day 142 - February 20, 2013: Vero Beach

Shortly after departing Fort Pierce, we saw our first ICW billboard, which was fastened to a sailboat anchored in the channel. The city was advertising its marina!

Fort Pierce City Marina billboard

Our destination, only a couple of hours away, was Vero Beach, which is billed as a laid back community with a strong focus on the arts. We stayed at the Vero Beach Municipal Marina on a mooring ball, which is well protected in a side channel with a large dinghy dock. This was definitely one of our favorite mooring sites so far, as it was private and quiet, yet close to attractions.

Vero Beach Municipal Marina and mooring field

We took the dinghy to shore and walked through quiet neighborhoods a few blocks to the Atlantic beaches and shopping areas. The Atlantic waters were calm and a wonderful azure blue, and these beaches were every bit as nice as Fort Lauderdale.

Vero Beach on the Atlantic

From there, we took the free trolley across the bridge, and all the major stores are available within a couple of miles along the route. It would be easy and relaxing to stay here for a week or more. After a rest back on Great Laker, we took the bikes to a cafe style restaurant called the The Lemon Tree on Ocean Blvd. Despite its simple appearance, the service and food were top flight.

Day 141 - February 19, 2013: The SEALs and the Manatees

This morning we headed out for the National Navy UDT-SEAL (Underwater Demolition Team - SEa, Air, Land Teams) Museum and Memorial, which was recently rated as the number one tourist attraction along the Treasure Coast of Florida. We came in at the 10:00 opening, and it was already filling up.

UDT-SEAL Museum and Memorial

The SEALS were created in WWII as frogmen and had the dangerous task of clearing the beaches of obstacles before the marines attacked. Since then, they have evolved into the most elite commando force in the world, participating in critical ways in every conflict known and unknown, and generating a history that is cloaked in secrecy and heroism. Their recent special forces classified missions (e.g., Osama bin Laden) have unfortunately been revealed to the public through politicized government announcements and leaks to the press, and while they cause Americans to better appreciate the SEALS, they also inform our enemies of the methods used.

In 2009, the cargo ship Maersk Alabama was boarded by terrorists who took the captain hostage in a life boat. SEALs were brought in and skilled marksmen were able to kill the three terrorists in the lifeboat and rescue the captain. This lifeboat is the one involved and is in the museum.

Maersk Alabama life boat in which terrorists were killed

In May 2011, Osama bin Laden was killed in a raid based on CIA intelligence and conducted by the SEALs. The models used by CBS 60 Minutes during post event news coverage are at the museum. There are many other displays of the evolution of the SEALs, their roles, personnel and equipment.

Osama bin Laden's compound during the raid

Osama bin Laden's house

After lunch, I spotted seven manatees, also known as "sea cows," swimming near our dock. We ran out to see them, and I got some good pictures of these interesting mammals. A mature manatee is typically 12 feet long and weighs 1200 pounds. They spend half the day sleeping in the water and half grazing and eating bottom plants. They are an endangered species, and there are signs along the ICW identifying zones where manatees congregate and requiring slow speeds so boats don't run over them. This manatee has just raised his head to breathe. 

Manatee raising his head to breathe

This motivated us to ride over and visit the Manatee Observation and Education Center, which had a good movie and many displays. It was interesting to learn more about them.

Day 140 - February 18, 2013: Fort Pierce

It was in the lower 40s again overnight, and the winds were high with temperatures in the 60s again today. We are missing the warm days, but actually, sleeping is better when it is cooler.

We moved on north through Hobe Sound into Jupiter Sound. The homes here are older but very nice, are built out of wood and traditional siding, and sit on very large elevated lots. This area reminded us a great deal of our own Spring Lake environment (although there are some palm trees).

 A Jupiter Sound home, much like those on Spring Lake

Then we crossed the St. Lucie Inlet, which is where the St. Lucie River, coming from Lake Okeechobee, exits into the Atlantic. This is the east end of the shortcut across Florida that many loopers take from Fort Myers. The inlet is very wide, and as you cross it you enter Indian River, which is a very broad and long bay running up to Fort Pierce.

St. Lucie River Inlet looking east towards the Atlantic

We docked at the Fort Pierce City Marina, which has a gift shop and two tiki bar/restaurants on site, and took a short walk through the very nice downtown area. Brown Pelicans are very common throughout southwest Florida, and there are always many on the docks and surrounding waters in marinas. These birds feed by diving at high speed into the water to scoop up fish in their pouches. They are very gregarious birds, always seen in large groups, which seem to behave with a common purpose.

Brown Pelican

Anne prepared a dinner on board which turned out to be a culinary pleasure. We picked up a generous slab of sushi grade tuna at the farmers market in West Palm Beach, and with a quick searing on both sides and her custom sauce, it was fabulous and healthy.

Tuna culinary delight

Day 139 - February 17, 2013: On to an anchorage in Hobe Sound

We spent part of the day just being lazy, watching the Sunday morning news shows and some basketball. We were hoping the 24 knot wind gusts would die down enough to get a few more miles north. Finally, at 4:00 pm, we decided it was a go and headed for Hobe Sound, just beyond Jupiter.

The ICW is connected to the Atlantic periodically by "cuts," which are navigable openings between them. Some of these are river outlets, but some have been cut through purposefully by the government to allow ships easier access into ports. In either case, most require periodic dredging to keep the required depth. As we passed the Jupiter Inlet, we saw the lighthouse that is maintained here to assist vessels in navigation to the port. Because this inlet is narrow, it is subject to very high currents during tide reversals, and small craft boaters are warned to be very cautious when using it.

Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse

One thing I noticed right away was that for the first time since we entered the Atlantic ICW in the Keys, the shores here were quite a bit higher than the water level. As a result, the homes enjoy some protection from hurricane flooding and a better view of the bay.

The high ground around Hobe Sound

We pulled into our anchorage, Sand Bar, just before sunset and found good depth and a good sand bottom for anchoring. The sand bar just off the point was giving some protection from currents. As always when anchoring, there are uncertainties and we were encouraged that Great Laker would hold in these winds.

Sand Bar Anchorage

Day 138 - February 16, 2013: North Palm Beach and Stone Crabs

With high winds and a cold front coming through, we decided against anchoring out and chose to move up 10 miles to the well-protected North Palm Beach Marina. We had wind gusts up to 31 mph during the evening, and temperatures fell into the low 40s, more than 20 degrees lower than last night.

We had a close call on the ICW, with a large cruiser coming within 10 feet of our port side while passing. It threw a massive wake which rolled Great Laker heavily back and forth and could have done severe damage. I'm very disappointed with the lack of many of these captains' skills and basic courtesy in this area.

You never know what you will see on the ICW. I don't know if this house is worth saving, but someone is taking the trouble to move it somewhere.

Used house on the move

Before departing, we went over to the Greenmarket near the marina. This farmers market was nicely laid out in a very spacious park setting near the water. We ran across a seafood booth with fresh Stone Crabs from Marathon and left with plenty for dinner. After arriving, we had our first stone crab meal, and it was delicious. The cracking was fun and done largely with a hammer. However, there were bits of shells and crab everywhere.

Preparing Stone Crabs for dinner