Day 58 - November 10, 2012: Even further south to Tenasas River Anchorage

We departed early in heavy fog intending to anchor at the Alabama River Cut Off. However, due to favorable downriver currents, we made it another 13 miles to the Tenasas River (MM 39.3). The inlet was wide and deep, so we had no problem getting in and settled. On the way, we passed through the Coffeeville Lock and Dam, which is the last lock on the Tenn Tom. We won't see another lock until Virginia!

We are now experiencing the first water connected directly to Mobile Bay and the Gulf. This means we are starting to get into salt water and beginning to sense the ocean tides and tidal currents.

Tides are as new to us as they would be to anyone who has only boated on the Great Lakes. They are in fact big waves that move through the oceans in response to the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon. Knowing at any time how fast the tide is moving and in what direction is important to navigation and planning.

For example, tomorrow we will run the rest of the river and enter Mobile Bay. If the tide is receding, we will make better time than if it is building. I have an app on my cell phone that gives me that data. Unfortunately, it is telling me that we will be going into an advancing tidal current. This could decrease our speed by a couple of miles per hour, but we will still get there by afternoon.

Day 57 - November 9, 2012: Further south to an anchorage at Okatuppa Creek

We arose to dense fog and near zero visibility and waited a couple of hours for it to clear before departing. I attempted to capture this billowing blanket of white. The steel posts were for mooring barges that would have been loaded with overhead cranes, and they appeared ghostly in the distance.

Steamy reflection

Posts beyond posts

Mooring lines under the abandoned loading dock

After getting underway, we encountered another unusual day, passing only two barges and seeing only one pleasure craft. We felt like we had reserved the river for our own private cruise! It was perfectly sunny with no wind, and the glassy water made me long to be out bare-footing. I just need a faster boat...

Perfect cruising and bare-footing conditions...

After about 50 miles, we chose an anchorage at Okatuppa Creek (MM 123.2), which is a good alternative to the well known Bobby's Fish Camp. The heron at the entrance was standing perfectly still, waiting for a fish to come by and become dinner. This was such a peaceful area, and we had it all to ourselves. 

Heron fishing for dinner

View from the sun deck as we relaxed before dinner

Day 56 - November 8, 2012: South to anchorage at Kemp's Landing

We arose to a bright, clear, sunny day and departed early for the Demopolis Lock. It turned out we were the only boat to enter, and we were greeted by a pair of herons hoping for a fish breakfast. These birds can be quite regal while still, and quite majestic in flight. Right after I took this picture, one swooped down and plucked a small fish from the water.

Pair of herons looking for food in the lock

The Tenn Tom in this area becomes somewhat less interesting with lower banks, fewer trees, and evidence of erosion from the fast boats that throw large wakes. Other than a paper plant south of Demopolis, and a couple of bridges, we saw virtually no evidence of civilization.

Our planned anchorage was at Kemp's Landing. It turned out to be a short man-made inlet, perpendicular to the river, with steel docking piles and a conveyor belt set up for loading barges. It was also clearly abandoned and beginning to rust away. I tied up at the loading piles to avoid having to drop the anchor. While not so picturesque, and despite no interesting sunset, it made a good safe and quiet place to spend the night.

Kemp's Landing at MM 172

Day 55 - November 7, 2012: Another day in Demopolis, AL

Again, we were lucky to have Anne's cousin, Sara, take us touring. Plus, Anne was reunited with another cousin, Knox, and learned more about another branch of her family.

Here are some of the Civil War era homes we saw today. These were built by cotton barons and reflect the vast wealth accumulated by these landowners. It's fortunate that individuals and foundations chose to purchase and maintain some of these great treasures. At the same time, however, many homes we passed are in hopeless ruin.

Bluff Hall built in 1832

Wildwood built in 1860

Gaineswood built from 1842 to 1860

Day 54 - November 6, 2012: Demopolis and Anne's relatives

Today we were lucky to have Anne's cousins pick us up and take us on a tour of Demopolis, Livingston, and Emelle, AL. We enjoyed their generosity in taking us to lunch and to their homes. Southern hospitality is unrivaled in my opinion.

Sara, Bell and Anne

Day 53 - November 5, 2012: South past Epes, AL, to an anchorage at Rattlesnake Bend

About 11 miles downstream we passed the white cliffs near Epes, AL. These cliffs of pure white "Selma" chalk were laid down in the Cretaceous period (65.5 to 145.5 million years ago) by the warm ocean waters. The chalk is stuffed with fossils which makes it very resistant to the river's erosion. Trees and vegetation have grown in above the chalk and cascade down over the edge. Combined with the fall colors, this made for a spectacular sight.

The white cliffs are up to 50 feet above the river

Vegetation grows over the sides

A bit of moss adds texture

The symmetry of sky, land and water

We anchored in an oxbow near Demopolis, AL. The oxbow is an isolated piece of the river formed when a meander in a river is cut off by the main stream eroding through to make a shortcut. The result is a horseshoe-shaped lake which may or may not be accessible. This one is used as a staging point for barges, so we went in quite far before dropping the anchor in about 25 feet of water. Besides the anchor light, I turned on additional interior lighting for the night to be sure we were very visible to other boats and/or tows.

Day 52 - November 4, 2012: Anne's cousin comes on board and the Sumter Recreation Area anchorage

Today Anne's cousin, Sara, came on board to ride with us through the Tom Bevill Lock and down the river to the Sumter Recreation Area anchorage. Sara and her husband, Pat, live nearby, and while they have often boated on the river, Sara wanted to experience a lock and have an opportunity to join us on our boat. So Pat delivered her to us at the Tom Bevill Visitor Center, where we picked her up by dinghy, and off we went. Despite a prediction of rain, we had good weather and some sun for the trip, and Sara had a good time.

Anne, Sara, and Pat

Dinghy ride to the Sumter Recreation Area launch ramp

The Sumter Recreation Area is a very small cove with a launch ramp adjacent to a remote campground. It is 10 to 15 feet deep and wide enough for 4 to 6 boats.